BEAUTY IN ALL

Today’s models challenge the traditional norms that have long defined our industry’s concept of beauty. An inclusive spectrum of models diversified in race, age, form, gender, and sexuality. In an industry that defines beauty, they are shaping a new point of view of what is beautiful.

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Photography by Greg Swales | Styling by Marc Anthony George | Casting by Gabriel Rey | Creative Direction by Louis Liu | Poem and Edit by Dustin Mansyur

 

Light Source
When the darkness has drawn near and
the Shadow of our fear’s grown real,
do not be afraid, for it is the Shadow
which offers the direction of the Source of Light.
Turn around and bask in the beauty in All.
Humanity is not separate,
but cells comprising the Body of Source Energy,
celebrating Itself through our Human experiences.
Collectively, we expand with Light,
unifying under these truths:
That Love is the only path to triumph Fear.
Where there is Light, the Dark is driven out.
Still your heart, so you may hear it say,
“Celebrate Humanity.”

IRIS07_BeautyInAll-11From Left To Right: Hua @ Wilhelmina Models Instagram @huaever | Meghan Collison @ New York Models, Instagram @omgitsmeg | Alima @ Supreme Instagram @alimalaf | All Clothing by Roberto Cavalli

IRIS07_BeautyInAll-16From Left to Right: Antonino Russo @ Request Models Instagram @antonino_russo | Sweater, Jacket, Pants, and Sneakers by Versace | Saloman Diaz @ Soul Artists Management Instagram @salomon.diaz | Jacket and Pants by Versace Boots by Dior Homme | Vito Basso @ Soul Artists Management Instagram @vitobss | Sweater and pants by Versace, Vintage Boots, Stylist’s studio

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Shaughnessy @ New York Models Instagram @ shaughnessybrown | Jacket, skirt and boots by JW Anderson, Bra by Prada

IRIS07_BeautyInAll-23Jillian Mercado @ IMG Models Instagram @jilly_peppa | Bra and Choker by Zana Bayne, Vintage Jean Paul Gaultier dress from Screaming Mimi’s Vintage, Socks and boots, model’s own


IRIS07_BeautyInAll-24Deion Smith @ IMG Models Instagram @deiondsmith | Jacket and pants by Prada Suspenders, stylist’s studio, Shoes by Roberto Cavalli


IRIS07_BeautyInAll-22From Left to Right: Armand Puszta @ Soul Artist Management Instagram @armandpuszta | Jacket and shoes by Roberto Cavalli, Shirt and Pants by Valentino | Avie Acosta Instagram @avie.acosta | Trench Coat by Valentino, Bra by Zana Bayne, Shoes by Roberto Cavalli | Jordan Paris @ Soul Artist Management Instagram @jordanwparis | Tuxedo and Shoes by Valentino, Shirt by Levi’s

IRIS07_BeautyInAll-21Daisuke Ueda @ IMG Models Instagram @uedaisuke | Harness by Zana Bayne Shirt, pants, and shoes by Burberry

IRIS07_BeautyInAll-20From Left to Right: Dustin Bice @ ANTI MGT Instagram @biceofficial | Kiara @ Elite Models Instagram @kikibarnez | Shirts and Pants by Hood by Air, Boots, stylist’s studio

IRIS07_BeautyInAll-19Aqua Bell Parios @ Heroes Model Management Instagram @aqua | Vintage Levi’s Dress from Screaming Mimi’s Vintage, Sleeve by Gypsy Sport, Shoes by Versace

IRIS07_BeautyInAll-14Diego Villarreal @ Soul Artist Management Instagram @ddiegovillarreal | All Clothing by Dior Homme

IRIS07_BeautyInAll-13From Left To Right: Molly Constable @Jag Models Instagram @mollyconstable | Harness by Zana Bayne, Vintage blouse from Screaming Mimi’s Vintage, Pants and boots, model’s own | Cindy Waiter Instagram @hellcat444 | Jacket by Levis Harness by Zana Bayne Dress, jewelry and boots, models own

IRIS07_BeautyInAll-12From Left To Right: Yves Matthieu @ Heroes Model Management Instagram @the_yvesdropper | Harness and pants by Preston Douglas, Shoes by Converse | Diana Veras @ Jag Models Instagram @mynamesdiana | Choker by Preston Douglas Shirt, shorts and shoes by Jil Sander

Hair by Anthony Joseph Hernandez using Bumble and Bumble | Makeup by Agata Helena using Stila and Makeup Forever | Photographer’s 1st assistant Pierre Bonnet, 2nd assistant Casey Frankli | Digital Tech Jean Claude | DP/Digital Manager Casey Showalter | Senior Digital Tech Nick Korompilas | Social Media Coordinator Brian Lynch.

BTS Videographer & editor Lavo Clemente, assistant Bharat Padhiyar | Interview by Keila Ramirez | Produced by XTheStudio | Stylist Assistants: Benjamin Price and Sam Knoll | Hair assistant Ben Martin | Makeup assistant Mable Pang | Special Thanks To Pier59 Studios.

REBEL REBEL

IRIS07_RebelRebel-1Dress by Kelsey Randall | Trousers Alon Livne | Earrings by Alibi | Necklace by BRIWOK Jewelry

IRIS07_RebelRebel-2IRIS07_RebelRebel-3Dress by Roberto Cavalli | Hat by Purple passion DV8 | Earrings by Wendy Faye Jewelry and Molly Cutler Jewelry

IRIS07_RebelRebel-4Suit by DKNY | Beret by Hat House New York | Earrings by Akko Su and Wendy Faye Jewelry

IRIS07_RebelRebel-5Suit by Versace | Boots by Pleaser

IRIS07_RebelRebel-6Top by SONGRYOO | Pants by DKNY | Beret by Hat House New York | Earring s by Mollie Cutler Jewelry

IRIS07_RebelRebel-7Leather Hat by Purple Passion DV8 | Latex Body suit by Atsuko Kudo | Safety pin earrings by Laruicci | Earring by Alibi | Necklace by BRIWOK Jewelry

IRIS07_RebelRebel-8Sweater by DKNY | Jumpsuit by SONGRYOO | Earring by Laruicci

IRIS07_RebelRebel-9Trench by Michael Kors | Hat by Purple Passion DV8 | Boots by Pleaser | Rings by Alibi | Avocet Jewelry and Redwolf PDX | Necklaces by BRIWORK Jewelry | Bracelet by Avocet Jewelry | Earrings by Laruicci

Hair & Makeup by Galvin Mason | Stylist assistant Clinton Rogers

Photography by Ace Amir | Styling by Jahulie Elizalde Model Nykhor Paul @ Muse Management

A ROSE BY ANY OTHER NAME

Dress by The Blonds

Sweater & Skirt by Carven | Leather corset by Zana Bayne

Top by PAMPLEMOUSSE | Jacket & Pants by Wesley Berryman | Hat by Hat House New York

Top by Patricia Padrón | Pants by Wesley Berryman | Hat by Anya Caliendo

Jumpsuit by Marna Ro |  Hat by Anya Caliendo | Shoes by Christian Louboutin

Corset by The Blonds | Coat by HOMIC | Trousers by Ex In nitas | Shoes by Jil Sander

Shirt by HOMIC | Sequin shorts & sleeves by Queenie Cao

Top by PAMPLEMOUSSE | Earrings by Roberto Cavalli

Trench by NAMILIA | Shirt by Jil Sander | Hat by PAMPLEMOUSSE

Hair by Sonny Molina using Davines | Makeup by Nicole Ossandon Using MAC Cosmetics, Urban Decay, Makeup Forever and Chanel | Production by XTheStudio | Stylist assistants Katie Brannock and Brendon Alexander

Photography by Franco Schicke | Styling by Jahulie Elizalde Model Hyun Ji Shin @ IMG Models
Art Direction by Louis Liu | Editor Marc Sifuentes

IN THE FLESH

IRIS07_InTheFlesh-2Bodysuit by Alix, Earrings by Rachel Comey

ON EYES: MARC JACOBS highliner Gel Pencils “IN the BUFF” and “VIOLET femme”
ON SKIN: MARC JACOBS “Dew Drops Coconut Gel” Highlighter and “Airblush Flesh & Fantasy”
ON LIPS: MARC JACOBS Enamored High Shine Lip Lacquer “Skin Deep”

IN HAIR: SHU UEMURA Depsea Foundation, Cotton Uzu, and Sheer Lacquer

IRIS07_InTheFlesh-1Swimsuit by ALIX 
Earrings by Luz Ortiz 
– 
ON EYES: MARC JACOBS “SUNSET”, “GOLD CRUSH”, and “MARI HIGHLINER GEL”
ON SKIN: MARC JACOBS “Dew Drops Coconut Gel Highlighter” and “Airblush Flesh & Fantasy” 
ON LIPS: MARC JACOBS Enamored High Shine Lip Lacquer “Skin Deep” 
– 
IN HAIR: SHU UEMURA Depsea Foundation, Cotton Uzu, and Sheer Lacquer.

IRIS07_InTheFlesh-3Dress by Bally
Earrings by Aurélie Biderman

ON EYES: MARC JACOBS “SUNSET”, “GOLD CRUSH”, and “MARI HIGHLINER GEL”
ON SKIN: MARC JACOBS “DEW DROPS COCONUT GEL HIGHLIGHTER” AND “AIRBLUSH FLESH & FANTASY”
ON LIPS: MARC JACOBS ENAMORED HIGH SHINE LIP LACQUER “SKIN DEEP”

IN HAIR: SHU UEMURA Depsea Foundation, The Essence Absolue, and Sheer Lacquer

IRIS07_InTheFlesh-4Dress by Prabal Grung Earrings by Luz Ortiz

ON EYES: MARC JACOBS “SUNSET”, “GOLD CRUSH”, and “MARI HIGHLINER GEL” 
ON SKIN: MARC JACOBS “Dew Drops Coconut Gel Highlighter” and “Airblush Flesh & Fantasy”
ON LIPS: MARC JACOBS Enamored High Shine Lip Lacquer “Skin Deep”

IN HAIR: SHU UEMURA Depsea Foundation, Cotton Uzu, and Sheer Lacquer

IRIS07_InTheFlesh-5Bodysuit by Lisba
Earrings by Leight Miller 
– 
ON EYES: MARC JACOBS “BLUE me away HIGHLINER”. 
ON LIPS: MARC JACOBS New Nudes Sheer Lip Gel “Strange Magic” 
– 
IN HAIR: SHU UEMURA Wonder Worker, Essence Absolue and The Detail Master 
– 
Manicure by Naok Saita @ Art List Using PRITI NYC “222-Coronation” 

IRIS07_InTheFlesh-6Dress by Prabal Grung
Earrings by Luz Ortiz

ON EYES: MARC JACOBS “SUNSET”, “GOLD CRUSH”, and “MARI HIGHLINER GEL” 
ON SKIN: MARC JACOBS “Dew Drops Coconut Gel Highlighter” and “Airblush Flesh & Fantasy”
ON LIPS: MARC JACOBS
Enamored High Shine Lip Lacquer “Skin Deep”

IN HAIR: SHU UEMURA Depsea Foundation, Cotton Uzu, and Sheer Lacquer

Art Direction by Louis Liu, Casting by DaVian Lain, Set Design by Cecilia Elguero @ Kate Ryan Inc. Digital Tech Heng Qing Zhao, Stylist Assistants Victoria Brekke and Julia Corniere

IRIS WOMAN – LAURE HERIARD DEBREUIL

Photography and Interview by Dustin Mansyur | Styling by Marc Sifuentes | Hair & Makeup by Cari Duprey @ Wilhelmina

Laure Heriard-Dubreuil photographed in Manhattan. Dress by Vintage YSL, Earrings by Aurelie Bidermann, Necklace and Ring by CVC Stones.

Since launching her multi-brand luxury boutique, The Webster, at the peak of the recession in 2009, Laure Heriard Debreuil has forged a career as a respected authority within the ever-changing landscape of the fashion industry. An FIT graduate, Laure got her start at famed fashion house, Balenciaga, then under the creative control of renowned designer, Nicolas Ghesquiere, earning her fashion credentials, first as a part of the brand’s merchandising team before moving on to become a top merchandiser for Yves Saint Laurent’s RTW division in Paris. Now, catering to a cult-cool crowd and building a brand known for purveying a trend before it’s even had time to be set, Dubreuil is something akin to a mystic tastemaker. Her own recognizable personal style sets the aesthetic tone for an instinctual buying process when it comes to working with established, well-known design houses or of-the-moment designers at the top of their game, often times collaborating with both to create exclusive, site-specific products for her boutiques.

Responsible for editing The Webster’s recherché selection of designer offerings, the Parisian-born CEO quickly evolved the delectable brand over the last 8 years, developing worldwide brand partnerships with Le Bon Marche, Target, and the Ritz Paris while expanding its boutiques to include additional locations in Bal Harbour, Florida; Houston, Texas; and most recently, Costa Mesa, California. Each boutique provides the indulgent sensory experience of the ultimate walk-in closet, integrating a luxurious, intimate, home-like ambience with contemporary artworks and customized antique furnishings. Carrying exclusive brands such as Balmain, Balenciaga, Chanel, Dior, Gucci, Loewe, Saint Laurent, & Vetements, The Webster’s women’s and men’s selection offers expertly curated ready-to-wear and luxury accessories, including shoes, bags, jewelry and watches.

In 2012, just three years after opening her 20,000 square foot Miami Flagship, Dubreuil took the dive into the world of e-commerce, using the same attention to detail to translate the exquisite nuances of her brick-and-mortar into an online shopping platform for customers around the globe. Notably, and at no great surprise, for the past two consecutive years Dubreuil has been among BoF’s Top 500: The People Shaping The Global Fashion Industry, as well as participated in WWD’s prestigious annual CEO Summit. Currently serving on the expert committee of LVMH’s annual fashion prize which fosters young talent, Dubreuil has rightfully taken her place as a revered member of the fashion community.

Here, IRIS Covet Book shares a conversation with creative wunderkind and fashion-business queenpin, Laure Heriard Dubreuil.

Top and Skirt by Chanel, Hoop Earrings by Céline, Pumps by Saint Laurent | Shop Webster exclusive including a new collaboration with Lane Crawford on thewebster.us

When did you first know that you wanted to be involved with fashion, and how did you arrive at that decision?

As a child, I was always interested in fashion, whether it was playing dress up in my mother’s closet or selecting new clothes for my brothers and sisters. As the oldest of four children, I was always making “looks” for them. After finishing university in Paris and Shanghai, I decided to act on my strong interests in fashion and enrolled in FIT in New York City, with a focus on visual merchandising.

Where did you first begin your career and did you have a great mentor in the early years of your career? What was your biggest take away from the experience?

I first began working in fashion through an internship while studying at FIT. Through this, I met Nicolas Ghesquiere who was at Balenciaga at the time and there was an instant connection between us. He hired me at Balenciaga to work within the creative studio and I learned so much from him. I consider him one of the most influential people in my career, still to this day.  

What made you decide that you wanted to become an entrepreneur and build your own business from the ground up? Was there a catalyst that acted as the motivation for change?

I would not say there was one specific catalyst, but it’s in my blood – I am from a very long line of entrepreneurs and my parents were always very encouraging and supportive of starting my own business.

Most professionals experience growing pains from time to time, and such experiences can offer us insight and learning. Can you relate a specific incident that at the time was a challenge, but in hindsight, has been one of your biggest sources of growth?

The renovation process of The Webster was a key learning experience; the process took so long and was much more challenging than I expected being in an historical building. We opened the South Beach permanent location in 2009 at the peak of the recession – I felt that things could only get better from there!

Define what success means to you? Is it a way of being, an attitude, or list of accomplishments?

Success is a way of being! For me, if I am happy, I am successful.

What double-standards for a professional man and woman do you believe exist in regards to society’s attitudes about power, success, and ways of being in business?

Double standards exist in today’s society, but I am hopeful things will continue to improve for women, especially within the workplace. I take significant pride in being the Founder and CEO of The Webster and hope that I can inspire other young women to follow their passions and take risks.

What qualities do you try to exude as a leader, in life and professionally?

Honesty, loyalty, hardworking, passionate, and understanding are the qualities I try to live by each day both in life and professionally.

What have been the biggest benefits of having a point of view and personal style that have helped you on a professional level?

Personal style has given me a confidence to think out of the box and not be afraid to push the envelope. It’s helped me to trust my instincts and have confidence when making quick decisions.

Personal style nowadays is one form of branding. Why is branding so important now, more than ever with the advent of the internet and development of social media?

With the internet and social media, the arena has become increasingly competitive, branding is how you differentiate and position yourself within an already saturated market. It allows you to speak to multiple audiences through  concise and clear messaging.

What adjectives would you use to describe The Webster brand? What methods do you use to reinforce this brand?

A few adjectives I would use to describe The Webster would be unique, exclusive, timeless, and sunny. We work tirelessly on ensuring the décor and ambience of the boutiques are inviting. We play close attention to every detail, including plush carpeting, customized and antique furnishings, contemporary artwork as well as a signature orange blossom scent that is consistent throughout all our locations. We are always collaborating with designers to offer site specific exclusive products. This has been a key defining thread present since we opened in 2009, and has become part of our DNA.

During an economic time when many companies were experiencing a downturn during the recession, what made you decide to launch your company then?

We made the decision and there was absolutely nothing that could stop me! I fell in love with the art deco architecture in Miami’s South Beach. We experienced so many obstacles but were so determined and felt such a tremendous sense of accomplishment once we opened.

How soon after opening did you begin to focus on the e-commerce market? Do you find a balance between the revenue your company creates through traffic online or in person?

We took our time, evolving organically by launching our website in 2012 and e-commerce (with Farfetch) and have continued since then to carefully expand online, while replicating the experience through unique, exclusive pieces and product drops.

Does The Webster have plans for greater expansion with more brick-and-mortar stores? Are there any upcoming projects or collaborations that you can discuss?

I am super excited to launch a worldwide exclusive collaboration between The Webster and Lane Crawford! It was inspired by our interpretation of the energy and spirit found in Miami, Florida, where The Webster’s first and flagship location was built. We will be launching over 70 products from more than 20 brands in all of our locations as well as online, collectively.

Do you find that the consumer experience of shopping in person is unique to your store?

I hope so, it’s our ultimate goal to ensure each visit to The Webster is special. We want our clients to feel comfortable spending time with us, especially with how fast paced our lives are, it’s important to make the experience special.

Who are your favorite new designers or who is on your radar?

ATLEIN, Wales Bonner, and Nadine Gosh!

What do you look for when you walk into a young designer’s showroom? How do you gauge what will sell in your store and does that differ in the various markets your store is present in?

I listen very much to my instincts as well which makes it special/different and we like to build long-term relationships with our designers, so it’s important for the young designers we partner with to have market and production knowledge, so they can grow and to have their collections to be sitting next to the biggest names in the industry. We also work very closely with our sales associates and in house stylists, listening to their feedback while ensuring our selection is interesting yet timeless. Our buys are uniquely tailored specifically to each of our four locations.

“Choose a job you love, and you will never have to work a day in your life.” Do you find this expression to be true? What do you love about your job the most?

Absolutely, this is the motto in which I live by! One of my favorite aspects of my job is having the opportunity to visit the showrooms and spending time with the designers and their teams.

What practices or habits have been beneficial for you in the mastery of your career and personal evolution?

I attribute my success to my parents, who instilled in me at a very young age to be responsible, respectful, and to always work hard for anything I wanted. This has helped define who I am, both professionally and personally.

Are you involved with any charitable initiatives or organizations? If so, please expound upon which causes you support and why you were drawn to them.

mothers2mothers is a tremendous organization that is very dear to me and am grateful to be an ambassador. I had the opportunity to visit South Africa, where the charity was founded, and was completely blown away by the work they are doing. What is so special about this organization is that they empower women living in townships with HIV by employing them as mentor mothers, who work as support system to other new mothers that are also HIV positive. This helps to not only remove the stigma about getting tested, but encourages women to disclose their status while also educating them about the necessary steps to give birth to healthy HIV negative babies.

When do you feel most creative?

I feel my best creative ideas happen during holidays in the summer, when I am super relaxed and happy spending quality time with my family.

What advice would you give to your younger self?

Never take no for an answer. I firmly believe that if you have determination, anything is possible!

What’s next?

You will have to stay tuned!! We are currently focused on the launch of Lane Crawford and continuing to grow within our existing locations!

REI KAWAKUBO/COMME DES GARCONS: ART OF THE IN-BETWEEN

Rei Kawakubo is a designer’s designer. Throughout the course of her 44-year long career, her work has showcased her as a premiere fine artist whose medium is fabric. Rei’s work moves beyond the human body, pushing past the boundaries of commerce and fashion and transcending into the poetic and conceptual world of thought. The late designer Lee Alexander McQueen said of Rei, “I think that every designer you ask will be influenced by Rei in one way or another but what makes them a good designer is them moving the Rei concept on for their own label – the tulle over a suit, masking a jacket over a coat, pearls trapped inside layers of fabric – moving it forward, not just taking it, digesting it and regurgitating it the same way.” Kawakubo, though short of stature and reserved in nature, is a goliath in the fashion world whose influence has extended through every level, down to the world of high street (Comme des Garcons’ collaboration with H&M is one of the most successful and well regarded to date). She has been accredited to influencing Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, and has affected the worlds of technology, architecture, interior design, and many other creative industries due to her innovative thinking and the hands-on approach she takes to every aspect of her brand: from store design to web interface.

IRIS07_ReiKawakubo-1Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Body Meets Dress-Dress Meets Body, spring/summer 1997; Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Kawakubo began her career as an outsider to the fashion world, studying fine art and literature at Keio University in Tokyo, this experience led to a deep understanding of the arts, poetry, and philosophy which can be seen in every garment and presentation that Kawakubo creates. After finishing her education, Kawakubo found herself working in the advertising department for a textile company, then as a freelance stylist, and subsequently designing for and launching her own label Comme des Garcons in 1973. Her label arrived on the Japanese fashion scene at the same time as Yohji Yamamoto and Issey Miyake, but what set her designs apart was her outsider view of fashion as a vehicle of sculpture and fine art rather than being formally trained in the classical ways of making clothing. In the early 1980’s she created an uproar at her debut Paris fashion show where journalists labeled her clothes ‘Hiroshima chic’ due to her frayed fabrics, distressed garments, dark color palette, and general aversion to traditional beauty.

Since the 1980’s, Kawakubo and Comme des Garcons have revolutionized the world of art, fashion, and design. The house has collaborated with many notable brands such as H&M, Converse All Star, Nike, Moncler, Chrome Hearts, Louis Vuitton, Supreme, and many others. Every fashion, art, and cultural influencer in the industry has been touched by Rei’s work in one way or another. Previous IRIS cover star and world famous milliner, Stephen Jones, once said in an interview, “Now, if you ask any designer who their favorite designer is, or who do they most respect, they will say Rei Kawakubo. I think that’s because she is a true original. She’s stuck to her guns. She does difficult things that are beautiful.” The work of Comme des Garcon is so richly layered throughout the decades that the upcoming retrospective exhibition delineates just an aspect of the beautiful work she has created.

Rei has always denied traditional titles of “fashion designer” or “artist, but prefers the more humble and interpretive epithet “clothes maker.” Recently, however, she’s begun to consider fashion as a form of art, and it is no doubt that the garments of Comme des Garcons are a fusion between art and fashion. This is a new inbetween space for Rei, at least on the level of self-awareness. Andre Bolton, the Head Curator of the exhibition, remarked: “She’s long occupied and explored another in-between space— Fashion/Commerce. From the outset of her career, Rei always viewed the creation of fashion and the business of fashion as a unified project. If, as Andy Warhol proposed, “Business Art is the step after Art,” Rei is its fashion manifestation. In this respect, Rei is an enigma, since her artistic practice remains legible and assertive, even in the context of its commerciality. Ultimately, it’s within this elastic zone between Fashion/Commerce that Rei’s “art of the in-between” occupies and most powerfully expresses itself.”

IRIS07_ReiKawakubo-3Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Blue Witch, spring/summer 2016; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

On display through September 4, 2017, the exhibition at the Metropolitan of Art’s Costume Institute is entitled Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons: Art of the In-Between. The retrospective exhibition is an examination of Kawakubo’s fascination with interstitiality, or the space between boundaries. This in-between space is revealed in Kawakubo’s work as an aesthetic sensibility, establishing an unsettling zone of oscillating visual ambiguity that challenges conventional notions of beauty, good taste, and fashionability. Rei Kawakubo, speaking of her own design choices, said, “I have always pursued a new way of thinking about design…by denying established values, conventions, and what is generally accepted as the norm. And the modes of expression that have always been most important to me are fusion…imbalance… unfinished… elimination…and absence of intent.” Not a traditional retrospective, this thematic exhibition will be The Costume Institute’s first monographic show on a living designer since the Yves Saint Laurent exhibition in 1983. The Director of the Metropolitan Museum of Art, Thomas P. Campbell, remarks that “In blurring the art/fashion divide, Kawakubo asks us to think differently about clothing. Curator Andrew Bolton will explore work that often looks like sculpture in an exhibition that will challenge our ideas about fashion’s role in contemporary culture.”

Kawakubo has broken the barrier between art and commerce by constantly searching for “newness”. Andre Bolton remarked that, “For Rei, however, her clothes are simply expressions of her endless search for originality or what she calls “newness.” In 1979—two years before her Paris debut—Kawakubo declared in an interview wit The New York Times: “I felt I should be doing something more directional, more powerful … [so] I decided to start from zero, from nothing, to do things that have not been done before, things with a strong image.” The concept of starting from nothing, a constant quest for reinvention, has ingrained itself into Rei’s design process. This is a mantra that guides Rei’s design decisions and creates fashions that not only stand apart from the genealogy of clothing but also resist and confound interpretation. She blurs the lines between garment and sculpture by obliterating our preconceived notions of the “shirt” or the “dress.”

Rei rarely has given any interviews. In fact, in one now fabled interview she reportedly drew a circle in black ink on a sheet of white paper and walked out; this served as an “explanation” to her then-collection Body Meets Dress — Dress Meets Body. Susannah Frankel, the fashion journalist who witnessed this performance, interpreted Rei’s answer as a demonstration of the collection’s indecipherability. Through the symbol of a circle, Rei was expressing the essential meaning of every collection: emptiness. Rei seems to enjoy confounding the editors, critics, and consumers of her work by offering obscure titles that serve to only muddy the waters of understanding. Bolton says of this Kawakubo phenomenon, “At best, they provide a code to be deciphered; at worst they serve as a red herring designed to divert, distract, and ultimately bewilder. Rei’s titles, like the collections themselves, can be read as Zen koans or riddles devised to expose the futility of interpretation. In Zen philosophy, koans are designed to confound the intellect by rendering analytical reasoning impossible. The most famous koan is mu, which roughly translates as emptiness. (…) It’s also central to the work of Rei, who as early as 1985 declared in Interview magazine: ‘The void is important.’”

Comme des Garcons is made up, conceptually, of space and emptiness. Most designers work to create volume and use materiality to take up space, but for Rei it is oftentimes more important to highlight the void — the space between. The exhibition’s title, “The Art of the In-Between”, comes from this poetic absence of space and Rei’s masterful hand at balancing tension between eight recurring themes: fashion/anti-fashion; design/not design; model/multiple; then/now; high/low; self/other; object/subject; and clothes/not clothes; all of which are explored in the Met’s retrospective exhibition in organized zones. “In her work, Rei breaks down the false walls between these dualisms, exposing their artificiality and arbitrariness.” remarks Bolton informing about the inspiration behind the curation.

IRIS07_ReiKawakubo-2Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Blue Witch, spring/summer 2016; Courtesy of Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

The first section of the sprawling exhibition—“Fashion/Anti-fashion”—centers on the early work of Comme des Garcons which debuted in Paris in the early 1980’s. The Parisian press had very strong reaction to the work owing to Rei’s apparent repudiation of Western fashion and its conventions. Bolton remarks, “These collections are significant for introducing the concepts of mu or emptiness, expressed through Rei’s monochromatic— principally black—color palette, and ma or space, expressed through outsized, loose-fitting garments that created a void between skin and fabric, and between body and clothes. (…) Wabi and sabi are aesthetic principles rooted in Zen Buddhism and are closely associated with the art of the tea ceremony. Wabi denotes decay and transience, while sabi denotes poverty and simplicity.” In Rei’s work, these Zen concepts are expressed through her work as asymmetrical forms, irregular finishes and trims, and imperfect creations.The tailoring and technical mechanics of dress-making are very important to Rei because they highlight the importance of the unfinished. Rei is the archetypal modernist designer. This modernism is most ardently expressed in her constant search for originality and “newness”. Rei is fascinated by the tension between originality and reproduction and between elite and popular culture, drawing parallels to other avant-garde modernists such as Warhol, Duchamp, and many other fine artists who play with similar themes.

Rei’s revolutionary experiments in fashion, art, and commerce have led to a natural hybridization in “in-betweenness,” which are taken to their logical conclusion in the final section of the exhibition—“Clothes/Not Clothes.” Focusing on Rei’s last eight collections, this wing of the retrospective represents her most radical, profound, and poetic ideas and creations that have never before existed in fashion. Rei’s previous collections have their confrontational novelty; however, they insist on existing as “apparel”. “These clothes are divorced from the delimiting requisites of utility and functionality and exist as purely aesthetic and conceptual expressions. The garments featured in “Clothes/Not Clothes” share qualities with sculpture as well as conceptual and performance artworks” explains Bolton.

In celebration of the opening, The Met’s Costume Institute Benefit, also known as The Met Gala, took place on Monday, May 1, 2017. The evening’s festivities were co-chaired by Tom Brady, Gisele Bundchen, Katy Perry, Pharrell Williams, and Anna Wintour. Rei Kawakubo and Ambassador Caroline Kennedy served as Honorary Chairs. The event is The Costume Institute’s main source of annual funding for exhibitions, publications, acquisitions, and capital improvements. The exhibition features approximately 150 examples of Kawakubo’s womenswear designs for Comme des Garçons, dating from the early 1980s to her most recent collection. Kawakubo breaks down the imaginary walls between these dualisms, exposing their artificiality and arbitrariness. Her fashions demonstrate that interstices are places of meaningful connection and coexistence as well as revolutionary innovation and transformation, providing Kawakubo with endless possibilities to rethink the female body and feminine identity.

IRIS07_ReiKawakubo-4Rei Kawakubo (Japanese, born 1942) for Comme des Garçons (Japanese, founded 1969), Body Meets Dress-Dress Meets Body, spring/summer 1997; Comme des Garçons. Photograph by © Paolo Roversi; Courtesy of The Metropolitan Museum of Art.

Exhibition Dates: May 4-September 4, 2017|Exhibition Location: The Met Fifth Avenue|1000 5th Ave, New York, NY 10028|1(800)662-3397

JACOB SUDHOFF AND JERRY HOOKER

Giorgetti Houston was merely a dream project when Jacob Sudhoff & Jerry Hooker first conceived the idea. Inspired by an heirloom-quality chair that the couple had purchased, Sudhoff, CEO and founder of Sudhoff Companies, and Hooker, principal at Mirador Group, imagined something far grander than the lackluster “luxury” condo developments that were sprouting up throughout the Houston market. The marriage of aspirational living with one of the world’s finest Italian cabinet and furniture makers was the couple’s muse when envisioning Houston’s first luxury-branded residential building. To be fitted with cabinetry and closets designed and manufactured by Giorgetti was simply not enough, as the couple visualized an all-encompassing lifestyle for the future residents of the building. High-end furnishings, paneling, lighting, carpeting and accessories curated by the couple and crafted by Giorgetti, will fill in the brushstrokes of the brand’s identity. Even the most seemingly-minor details, such as how the bricks are laid or the color palettes that will transform the spaces, are inspired by individual furniture pieces created by the Italian label. Certain to be one of the most-sought after residences, Giorgetti Houston will boast seven stories and 32 handsomely bespoke homes that will be timeless works of art at the interstice of luxury living.

 

Here IRIS Covet Book shares a conversation with the real estate and design moguls behind this ambitious and exciting project.

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DM: Where are you from originally and how did you both come to call Houston home?

JERRY: I grew up on a farm in Tennessee in the middle of nowhere and waited my whole childhood to get out of rural west Tennessee. After graduating high school, I went to LSU (Louisiana State University) because it was the top-ranked program, which later led me to New York for three years. My older sister and her husband lived in Houston, so I always wanted to call Houston home to be close to family. I just needed my career to catch up to where I wanted to be, before I ultimately moved back here.

JACOB: I grew up in Corpus Christi and moved here in 2010. I’m from south-Texas, born and raised. I always wanted to move to the city, so I looked at New York, Miami, Atlanta, Dallas, and Houston, and I decided on Houston. To break into a new city, I felt Houston was the most accommodating and had the best opportunities. I found that Houston was a welcoming city and I think everybody here will always give you one opportunity to prove yourself. So that was a refreshing aspect about working and starting a career here.

DM: Did you two meet here in Houston, and how long have you both been married?

JACOB: We’ve been together as long as we’ve been in Houston, so a little over six years and married for two years just this past Valentine’s Day.

JERRY: When I was living in New York, one of my closest friends there was from Houston, and he knew Jacob from the past. I had come home to surprise my sister for Christmas that year, and went out with friends for drinks the evening of Christmas Day. That evening, a friend of mine told me, “There’s this new guy in town, and I want you to meet him.” But that was prefaced with, “But he’s dating one of my friends, so stay away.” But that just sounded like a challenge that I could conquer. Ever since then we’ve been together [laughter].

DM: How long have you been working in your respective fields, and what gave you the desire to get into those fields?

JACOB: I’ve been in real estate for 20 years. When I was a kid, I used to enjoy riding my bike around the neighborhood and going through all the open houses. I have a photographic memory, so I used to memorize all the statistics and floor plans of the houses I’d walk through. My grandfather was a realtor and he naturally had an influence on me. At the age of 16, I started working for a broker out of Dallas named, Marilyn Hoffman. When I was a teenager, I used to ride horses. I was at an Arabian horse show in Fort Worth, and ran into her booth where she was selling multi-million-dollar mansions and horse farms. When I was 18 and after I got my real estate license, I worked for two years as her assistant. When I flew up to Dallas for the first time, she picked me up in a Rolls Royce, and we went shopping. I lived in a lower-middle-class family, and being introduced to her lifestyle was like seeing Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous in real life. In fact, she was on that show many times with all her listings, so it was a culture shock for me. While I worked for her, I went on to open an office in Corpus Christi for her.

JERRY: I went to school for urban design, architecture, landscape, and have been in it ever since. I’ve been in this field for about 10 years now. Originally, I was following in my sister’s footsteps because she and her husband were the only financially-successful people in my family. I thought I was going to be a golf course architect, but I soon figured out in the first year of school that that was not my calling in life. From my experience in New York, I discovered a niche by combining my interests in architecture, landscape architecture, and interiors. Naturally, just loving the process of home construction is why now we’re involved in all three disciplines meshed together.

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DM: Do you have any professional mentors or someone who’s inspired you in your career and encouraged you to go after your goals?

JERRY: For me a great mentor is someone who has a combination of career success balanced by successes in their personal relationships. My sister has been that consistent person in life and business that I admire. With her relationship, with her family, and also with her business because she is able to balance them all. I always wanted to emulate that.

JACOB: I would say my most recent mentor is my business partner, George Lee, whom I met when I came to Houston. He is a good man that has stepped in and acted like a mentor to both Jerry and myself.  

JERRY: He’s kind of like a father figure to us now. From a business perspective, he has taught us so much. I don’t think our companies would be as successful without his advice and influence.

DM: Were there any challenges that you’ve had to overcome in order to reach the level of success that you’re currently experiencing?

JERRY: We both have had normal business growth spurts and growing pains, but luckily, we listened to people like George, and learned through other people’s hard times in order to better manage our own.

JACOB: In Corpus, I struggled more than I have in Houston. I didn’t have a mentor there, so it was more difficult. Coming here and having a mentor has really helped whenever there have been issues. George has been what’s gotten me through those challenges properly.

JERRY: We’ve had struggles that we thought were the end of the world, but I still feel like in hindsight and compared to plenty of other people we know, we were fortunate enough to make it through them.

DM: Do you have any daily practices or habits that help you as an entrepreneur?

JACOB: I think routine is very important. We are very strict to a routine. We’re in bed by 9 o’clock almost every night, and I’m up at 4. We prefer to have our days very structured. We live by appointments during the day. Weekends—we still work, but it’s more on the passion side. We enjoy looking at houses and touring properties or looking at land. I think it’s something that has helped us because we love what we do.

JERRY: Because we’re passionate about what we do, a large portion of it feels as enjoyable as a hobby and not so much like work. Even when we travel, we like to look at houses and get ideas so we can be inspired for the next project in Houston.

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DM: Thought and visualization are very powerful tools in achieving success in manifesting different desires that you might have in life. Have you ever utilized these practices, and if so, could you share a specific experience?

JACOB: On our honeymoon, we went to Borobudur, one of the largest Buddhist temples. While we were there, we chanted with the monks. After that experience, I started to get into meditation. It’s not something I do every day, but it’s something I do often. Years ago I signed up for a service on tut.com. After signing up for it and taking the initial survey, the service sends you a message from “the Universe” daily. The main message of the Universe is to just relax and visualize where you want to be. I receive those messages Monday through Friday, it’s nice way to remind myself to visualize where you want to be, whether that’s tomorrow or 10 years from now. In my opinion, visualization is a key to success.

JERRY: I like the perspective of retrospect—thinking about where you came from and trying to check in with yourself to maintain humility. I always try to bear in mind where I came from and the experiences that I’ve had because everything started with that foundation, and my future is built upon that.

DM: There’s a good balance between you two. What are some unique features or services that your companies provide to the Houston market that makes you stand out amongst your competitors?

JERRY: It’s really the integration of our companies that allows us to stand out. Everything that we can offer our clients is because of the dynamic that we bring together, from the sales and marketing to putting the structure of the deal together. It’s a truly comprehensive approach to real estate developments, regardless if it’s a high-rise condo or a single-family house. Most of the time, creatives are horrible business people, but my hat is split between finance and actual design. I care equally about both of them. My team counterbalances me since they are all about the design. That definitely goes into Jacob’s deal-making process to make sure the numbers work up front to ultimately hire our own companies to do the sales, marketing, and design. It’s a wonderful collaboration!

JACOB: And I believe we do more. I still own and manage the brokerage firm, but the main hat I wear right now is more of a developer’s partner. I help structure the deal, help raise the equity, and help manage the concept and the programming of the projects. And at the end of the day, it’s about the bottom line and profitability, but also the philosophy of sales and how the projects will absorb into the marketplace upon completion. We’re not just a private equity firm or just an architecture firm, we also own a land-planning firm. So it’s really the integration of all these together which allows us to play a large part with each one of our clients.

DM: What projects are you currently working on together, and is it enjoyable for you to collaborate with one another? I imagine you must continuously feed off each other’s energy.

JACOB: What we like is we’re able to change Houston’s landscape. So we’re bringing more architecturally significant projects to Houston. I think that that’s something that’s really exciting for us. So the first branded building that we’re doing right now is Giorgetti Houston, and that’s only the first—we’re working on several more branded buildings. I’m excited to bring and to have Houston be an incubator of unique and forward-thinking projects. There’s dozens of projects we’re currently working on and dozens more in the pipeline!

JERRY: For the Giorgetti project, we knew the piece of property, and we knew it needed to be a condo building. But at the same time, it needed to be something special, so we started thinking about brands to collaborate with. We had purchased a piece of Giorgetti furniture a long time ago, and the more we learned about its construction, along with the family heritage and philosophies that they’ve had for over 100 years, the more interested we became in collaborating with them. We jumped the gun and went ahead and did some preliminary designs for a building. We coordinated a meeting with the company to share our idea. The CEO of the company even came from Italy to meet with us. Maybe he thought we were crazy, but we were able to prove ourselves because we had studied the brand, its philosophies, and how to make an environment truly Giorgetti. It’s not just the kitchen cabinets. It’s not just the closets, but it’s the furniture, the lighting, the rugs, and the accessories. It’s how all these details translate into the Houston market.

JACOB: We went to Italy and took it a step further. After they came and agreed to further this conversation, we went to Italy to visit their factory. There we saw in depth all the details of how things are constructed and learned even more about their philosophy. Everything within our building—from how we’re laying the brick, to the façade of the building itself, to all the materials and color palettes is all inspired by different pieces of Giorgetti furniture.

JERRY: It made a lot of sense to us to try to partner with them and luckily, we were fortunate enough that they agreed. It’s actually been a pretty beautiful process so far.

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DM: Is this the first branded residential project of its kind in Houston?

JERRY: In essence, this is the first branded building of this kind in Texas, and Giorgetti is sold in 67 countries across the world. They’re actually better known in London or Paris or New York or Singapore. But they allowed us to do it first in Houston, so we’re very proud to be collaborating on this together.

JACOB: It was a perfect storm of us really wanting it, and being such a big part of the development process, that we were able to push something like this forward. Giorgetti had attempted another project that did not go through. I think it’s a big compliment from them that they wanted to be a part of our project.

DM: And how has the response been from the consumer?

JACOB: Houstonians were not informed about the Giorgetti brand. But as people got to know the brand and they understood, they developed a respect for it. Now it has really taken off.

JERRY: Sales are going well, and we’ve basically eliminated any question of the project not happening anymore.

JACOB: The quality of buyers in the project are fantastic. These are people who are art lovers and who understand quality and craftsmanship. So each piece of Giorgetti furniture is designed by an architect and for us each home is sort of it’s own piece. I actually think it’s going to be one of the few condominium projects that will be sought after once it’s built. Once they can walk in and experience what a Giorgetti home will be like, then they’ll really want it and strive for it. Giorgetti will only allow us to do this one building in Houston, so the next one will be in another city.

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DM: And what’s the timeline for completion on the project?

JERRY: Assuming sales keep going as they are, we will probably start construction at the end of this year and take about 16 to 18 months to complete. So we’re looking at completion in 2019.

DM: How do you see yourself and companies evolving in the future?

JERRY: Probably just a continuation of what we’ve seen so far. I mean, our companies are very different now than what they were six years ago, and both of our companies have quadrupled their size since then. But it’s really more of an integrated approach moving forward, being more involved with one another, both offices and projects themselves. We like having a seat at the table both financially and professionally, so it will just be a continuation of that, I think.

JACOB: We’ve made a conscious effort to go deeper with our business rather than going wider and spreading ourselves too thin. That means taking a deeper relationship with each project and wearing multiple hats in each project to have more impact. And we feel that that leads to greater chances of success.

DM: What has been your favorite project to work on besides Giorgetti, either together or individually?

JERRY: Before we were together, when I was living in New York, I spent most of my time working on the 9/11 Memorial. The firm I worked for at the time had the entire Route 9A corridor, which is the West Side Highway. We were doing the World Financial Center, 1 World Trade, and all the frontages between the buildings. At the time, that was empowering. I was just a junior designer at the time, but it was something I looked forward to every day and learned a tremendous amount from. Aside from the Giorgetti project, our first showcase home that we designed and built together is a favorite because it has led to so many other amazing projects.

JACOB: When I first got to Houston, the market was not very good. George had invested in a lot of different projects that were all in peril. I went to the different banks and negotiated the debt and purchased out all the debt at discounts. I was able to save a significant amount of capital for George and prove that I was able to achieve the results. I demonstrated that I was capable of doing more than just being a traditional realtor. And that led into having us invest and start being the private equity for all these different builders and developers. Giorgetti has been a special project because there’s been—it’s had a lot more of an emotional connection—it’s been the best collaboration between us.

DM: You both have experienced so much growth through your collaboration with one another.  I’m curious when do you feel most confident?

JACOB: Together.

JERRY: I couldn’t agree more. We do well in situations like this because we absolutely counterbalance each other.

JACOB: I think that our relationship has grown stronger over the years and will continue to grow both professionally and personally.

IRIS07_JerryJacob-5Photography and Interview by Dustin Mansyur|For more information visit giorgettihouston.commiradorgroup.com | sudhoffco.com

EDGARDO OSORIO

A year ago, Instagram was flooded by lavish photos of a decadent Surrealism themed birthday party in Florence. Celebrities and tastemakers such as Poppy Delevigne and Rebecca Corbin-Murray reveled in gorgeous custom gowns, elaborate Venetian masks, and Philip Treacy designed headpieces. Bar rooms bedecked in leopard, lush jungle backdrops, and bartenders dressed like lobsters helped set the scene for an out-of-this-world extravaganza. At the center of the festivities was the newly 30-year-old Edgardo Osorio, founder and designer of the shoe brand Aquazzura. A dreamer and aesthete with a design pedigree that includes stints at Ferragamo and Cavalli, Osorio’s trips around the globe inspired this epic two-day celebration as much as they do the coveted shoe designs behind the six-year-old label.

In a world where a designer’s “inspiration” can be called out as thinly veiled “appropriation,” Osorio’s work shows that as much influence as he draws from the world around him, he returns by supporting the local artisans around the globe who inspire the aesthetics of his collections.

A friendship with model and philanthropist Petra Nemcova led to the pair’s collaboration on a special edition sandal for Happy Hearts Fund, an organization Nemcova founded after surviving 2004’s Indian Ocean tsunami. Happy Hearts rebuilds schools in areas impacted by natural disasters, and currently operates in ten countries worldwide. Infused with classic Osorio sex appeal, the playful but sophisticated strappy suede stiletto is embellished with handmade hearts and towers in with a 105mm heel. It is available on the Aquazzura website starting in May, and 25% of the proceeds of the sales will go to Happy Hearts Fund. As Osorio involves himself with this and other philanthropic initiatives, giving back is becoming as synonymous with the Aquazzura brand as its signature pineapple soles.

Here, the festaiolo of footwear chats with Iris Covet Book about his inspirations, stripes, and why high heels will never be a sneaker.

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Your designs are modern, sexy, and finely crafted. How do you approach designing each collection? Where does most of your inspiration comes from?

I normally start with a trip. I travel eight months out of the year and I believe that I have to travel to find inspiration. The last Winter collection, for example, is inspired by a trip to Russia – in June during the White Nights, when the sun never sets – and it was just so incredible and I came back with so many ideas. I had read about it before because I love history and historical novels, so I started reading about Catherine the Great and Peter the Great and the Romanovs. Just going there, to the different palaces, and seeing where they worked, the art collections, the decor, the way they dressed, the lifestyle…it was just so beautiful. Lots of velvet and fur and embroidery, a very rich lifestyle. I then have to ask myself “How do I turn that into something modern? How do I mix that in?” Then you start thinking of the girls in your life, I have a lot of Russian girlfriends, and then I think “how would she wear it? How would she interpret it?”.

This summer’s collection is inspired by my 30th birthday party last year. It was three days of parties, and one of them was a Surrealist ball, and the first ball was an eccentric jungle. I had a huge moodboard with tribes from the Amazon, Kenya, Papua New Guinea… all of those exotic tribes. It was kind of a multi-cultural, bohemian trip around the world. I just came back to my office and started thinking about some of the places I had been to. When I began designing the Summer collection I just couldn’t get the idea out of my head. As a designer you are just inspired by everything that is around you and you have to take that all into your work.

A large part of your influences and inspirations come from your travels. What parallels can be drawn between your influences and your philanthropy?

We participate in many different charities across the world. As a global brand, you have to give back globally as well. Recently, we hosted an event that benefitted animal rights and protection. We are incredibly fortunate, and I think part of that is giving back. In the past we have worked with Natalia Vodianova’s Foundation, The Naked Heart Foundation, and in Dallas we just auctioned off experiences and products to give to AMFAR and the Dallas Museum of Art. We help in many different ways and it is so important to give back and be supportive of the communities that support us.

When I work on collections, at the same time I give back. One example is like when I worked with the women of Colombia’s Wayuu tribe to make the Mochilla fabrics for the Mochilla espadrilles. The local women wove the fabrics by hand while we made the shoes in Italy; we are inspired by Colombia while supporting local (Colombian and Italian) economies. For this Fall’s collection, inspired by the Silk Routes of Turkey and Uzbekistan, we’re locally sourcing Ikat velvets and Ikat silks there, while making the shoes in Italy using their beautiful techniques.

So what is your favorite part about the design process? The travel?

Well, actually I really love taking an idea and making it into a reality and the whole process behind it. Sculpting a heel, correcting a shoe, choosing the leathers, the trims, etc. It is such a wonderful process because you evolve from your initial idea. To make your dreams into a reality is the most wonderful thing I think anyone can do and the most rewarding. Getting to see a woman actually wear your ideas. I love whenever I walk around and see a woman wearing an Aquazzura shoe, it really makes me smile because that’s really what your purpose is as a designer. Making people happy and looking fabulous.

Do you have a muse? Icons that you always look to?

I don’t have a muse per se. I actually think that the idea of a muse is quite old-fashioned. Designers used to live in a bubble and have one or two muses, but even then they had a romantic idea of who this woman is supposed to be, but she, herself, is not even like that! (laughs) I think women nowadays can have a hundred personalities just by changing the way they dress, so I find it quite limiting to look at women in a one-dimensional way. I love the fact that Aquazzura is actually a multi-generational, multi-cultural brand. We dress sixteen year old girls, seventy-five year old women and everything in-between because everyone wants to feel young and look great. I do have many women that inspire me, I’ve collaborated with many inspiring women like Olivia Palermo, Poppy Delevigne, etc. I love to work with these women, but in a specific capsule that is limited. As a male designer I think it is great to have a female point of view, and these women are under such intense scrutiny and they’re being photographed in every magazine so they know what works and what doesn’t. It is really great input and it is really fantastic to learn from them, but at the same time it’s their point of view so it can only be a little part of the collection.

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So then what are the qualities that these modern women are looking for?

I think versatility is key. My best selling styles are very versatile and you could wear them with jeans and a t-shirt or you can wear them with a ball gown. I think it’s about changing your outfit but keeping your shoes. For example, our Sexy Thing shoe, one of our most iconic shoes, Kendall Jenner wears with jeans a t-shirt to go out to dinner in LA, but Gigi Hadid wore it to Cannes in a long Tom Ford evening dress. I think that is modernity. When women are dressing they want something that can completely change with them and I think that asset is what makes a shoe modern. It becomes timeless and it can go with everything. That’s good design.

Growing up in Colombia, was there any moment that became a defining moment for you creatively? Was Colombian culture inspiring to you?

I grew up between Colombia and Miami, and when I was sixteen I moved to London, and from London I moved to Rome, and from Rome I moved to Florence. So, I think that my style is a lot like me and it is just a mix of everything. Growing up, there was no specific moment other than when I was fourteen in London doing summer courses at Saint Martins, and I came back and that’s when I really decided that I wanted to work in fashion and make accessories. I was always creative; I loved to sketch. I have sketches when I was five years old drawing dresses and women and shoes, so it was something that always interested me. As time went by it just became more specific and I decided to focus on shoes, which is what I really loved. I was already interested in shoes before Ferragamo and I think being in Florence really enamored me with what I was doing. I got to work with the artisans making the shoes and get closer to the craft. It was a big job and a wonderful stepping stone into my career.

Well, discussing Florence, what do you think is so inspirational about the city and why did you decide to base your headquarters there?

Well, Florence is one of the most beautiful cities in the world and I am an aesthete, I love beautiful things, so being in a city surrounded by beauty, well, it helps. (laughs) It was the site of the birth of the Renaissance. It is a city that has an energy because it has been a capital of art and beauty since the Renaissance, and you still have people from all over the world who go there to attend art and cooking schools. People go there to be artistic and to discover something. It is funny because a lot of people move to Florence for one or two years just because they want that life and they want to enjoy and have a positive life. Tuscany has the biggest concentration of luxury artisans in the world. Italy is a great place to make shoes, and the biggest center is Tuscany because you have all of the factories and the artisans there. It allows you to make things that people in New York, Paris, London, whatever, could not do in the same way because you have a personal relationship with them and you can see things and fix them in a way you could not do if you weren’t there.

I read in a Business of Fashion Interview that you chose to be there because of the personal relationships with factories.

Well, you know as a designer with an atelier, you have an idea and you work with these people who interpret it and make it a reality. If you are close to them in the development process they get to know what you like and what you want and they will interpret what you want in the best possible way. You will, in turn, learn from them as people who have worked in this industry for thirty, forty years. Craftsmanship is about time because you have to learn and evolve and make mistakes. It is not like you can go to university and just learn how to make shoes, it is literally years and years of experience.

What is the quality in your design aesthetic that gives your brand individuality and has made your company so successful?

I think there is a very specific point of view that Aquazzura has. You can really recognize our shoes, even though now we have been extremely plagiarized. (laughs) The lacing, the sensuality, the playfulness – it’s a very specific point of view, it is really about the design and people recognize that. The fact that we do probably make the most comfortable shoes in luxury takes an incredible amount of time to study and engineer and understand how to make the shoes comfortable for the wearer, from the materials to the construction. Because of that, word of mouth from our clients has made the difference in the course of just five years.

IRIS07_EdgardoOsorio-3Along the Arno River, in the heart of Florence and near the best shoemakers and craftspeople in the world, the Aquazzura headquarters are situated in the historical Palazzo Corsini along with the Florentine flagship store. Pictured above, the green room.

IRIS07_EdgardoOsorio-4Pictured above, the pink room, both taken at the Aquazzura headquarters.

Why do you think most high heels are so uncomfortable?

Well, high heels will never be a sneaker. (laughs) However, there is a way to study and construct shoes that make them more comfortable. The insole, the padding, the material inside…all of these things make a difference, so I think that when you give a client a beautiful, comfortable shoe, why would they wear an uncomfortable pair?

We are actually going to be launching sneakers next year because it is such a huge part of a woman’s closet. That is the next step because I think that if you look at our collection we have every heel height and every style, but the sneaker is something we are missing. We want to be able to cater to our customers.

Would you ever consider designing men’s shoes?

Yes definitely, that’s actually something that is in the works already. We will be launching next year. We recently launched Aquazzura Mini, which is a line for young girls. We will also be launching men’s and accessories as well.
You have experienced international acclaim since your debut collection in 2011, selling at stores like Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, and Barney’s. How has this rapid success affected you and your business?

Department stores are a wonderful introduction for a new brand because they have such a huge array of clients and it is a great way to get the brand known and be accessible. I started in department stores and it is a wonderful way to showcase the collection and have it living in a space among other brands. You have a completely different customer that shops in a department store rather than a boutique.

You are currently making trips throughout the US to different Neiman Marcus locations, what is the importance of that for you?

Well, I love people and I love my clients and it is a rare opportunity to meet my clients. It is a privilege to get to know the people who buy your shoes, to meet them, and to get their feedback. It really helps me create products, and give women what they want. Building relationships and loyalty, which doesn’t really exist anymore, creates a bond with your clients and it is extremely important.

What about your online business? Is that something you focus on as well?

Yeah I am really happy because it has been so incredibly successful. We link our social media and make it an omnichannel, so if something is not in stock you can pull it from our store. If something is sold out on our website you can look up which retailer in the world has it. I think online is all about customer service, and we are trying to create a unique experience with that as well and have a unique selection compared to our competitors.

What are some of the differences that you see between American, British, Italian women, etc., since your company has become so international?

You would be surprised. Obviously in London we sell more boots and more heavy weather shoes, but in terms of style everyone in the world – because we live in such a globalized world, and social media is king – a trend is hot everywhere at the same time. Everyone still wants the same shoe in the same color whether they are in Australia, China, France, America, whatever. It’s so incredible!

So you think that social media and social celebrity makes style globalized?

Yes, the best sellers here are the best sellers all around the world.

Does that approach inform how you open new boutiques?

Well, I believe that we are in a globalized world and people are getting tired of seeing the same thing everywhere. Why go to a shop in Hong Kong when you live in New York or you live in Dallas and you have the exact same store back home? Why would you even walk into that store? You’ve seen it already. So, my design approach is treating them like a home. You wouldn’t decorate your home in LA like you would in New York or Miami because the environment is very different. Every store is different; every store has a different personality. They are even created by different interior designers with different furniture and colors and approaches. I like a mix of modern and classic. There is one thing that kind of pulls everything together: stripes. I think stripes are quite modern and it’s become a symbol of the brand, it actually has become part of our packaging as well. It comes from the Renaissance, and the cathedrals and churches from that time; striped pillars, striped facades, striped columns, I kept on seeing stripes. That is our common thread, back in the day there were some stores that you would have to travel to go to in Paris or Tokyo and it was an experience to walk into that store because it was so special and unique, and you would find merchandise that you could not find anywhere else in the world. I want to have the same approach to my stores, to create stores that are completely unique and one-of-a-kind, where 40% of the merchandise is unique to the store and you cannot find it anywhere else. That is why you walk into a store, or else you will just buy it online.

IRIS07_EdgardoOsorio-5Photography by Jake Toler|Art Direction by Louis Liu|Interview by Alan Bindler

MARTINEZ BROTHERS

Exposed to music from an early age through their father’s church, the two began mixing tracks and researching diverse genres of music as teenagers. With an enviable list of gigs that includes DC10 in Ibiza (where former Givenchy Artistic Director, Riccardo Tisci first discovered them), to the famed Electric Daisy Carnival in California where they attracted party-going crowds of 60,000, the Martinez Brothers are quickly moving up the ranks in the world of DJs. In the past 3 years, the brothers have partnered with a number of brands, from mass market campaigns with Pepsi to elevated cultural collaborations with Givenchy. Working with influential artists such as Tiga, Basement Jaxx, King Britt and Miss Kittin, the brothers continue to evolve and explore new sounds as their fan base spreads across the globe. The Martinez Brothers have designed an exclusive collection of hats and jackets, under their label Cuttin’ Headz, for New Era, launching their second season this fall. The first season sold out online within a single day. The brothers have also recently signed with the mega-modeling and talent agency IMG, extending their reach even further into fashion. In between recording music with their label Cuttin’ Headz, IRIS Covet Book discussed with Steve and Chris how they got their start, and their rise to club and fashion disc jockey fame.

IRIS07_MartinezBros-2

How do you think that growing up in New York, especially the Bronx, affected your taste and your career?

I think growing up in the Bronx… it could have gone a lot of different ways. A lot of different roads we could have traveled. Fortunately for me, I grew up as a preacher’s son, so I had a sheltered lifestyle. I think being in the church, being in the church band and traveling around with the band inspired us a lot. When we would get home from church or school, we would just DJ, make music, and learn about music. It was basically all music all the time. Without even being told, I knew I wanted to do it. If we weren’t in the Bronx I don’t think it would have been that way. The cultural diversity here plays a major role.

From the Bronx to Ibiza to Paris Fashion Week, both of you have come a long way in your career and your personal life. What do you think was your big break?

The first big break… I think it was definitely when we hooked up with Dennis Ferrer who, as far as house music is concerned, is a legendary figure who has made some crazy contributions. But I think once he picked us up he really molded us, you know what I mean? That was the big break. That was when everybody started questioning like, “Who are these guys?”, when he took us under his wing.

Where do you think most of your musical influences came from when you were growing up?

We listen to all types of music and we buy all types of records. When I was younger what was really driving me crazy was early hip-hop. I was inspired by going over to my grandparents and listening to salsa music, soul, Marvin Gaye, Stevie Wonder, all of that. Jazz was pivotal for us. Brazilian music, George Lenox, everything. So, I can’t really say that there is one thing that influenced us because it’s a sum of all of those genres.

In 2014, you both traveled to Paris to perform for the Givenchy Menswear and Womenswear collections. How did that happen?

We’ve always been into fashion. Riccardo Tisci came to our set in Ibiza one night and he just really loved it. We set up a meeting with the Givenchy office soon after and just really clicked. Riccardo is a really great guy and we were on the same page with so many ideas. After that, we quickly became involved with the fashion world.

What are some of the most memorable sets or gigs that you and your brother played?

Most memorable sets? Pretty much any time we play at DC10 in Ibiza it’s amazing. That place has just such a good vibe. Panoramabar in Berlin is great too; the last time we played there it was like church, we played for like ten hours or something like that. Actually in Miami this last month we played for twenty hours nonstop. All around the world we have a little special connection.

When did you feel the need to start your own music label and can you tell us more about the artists that you have signed?

I mean having a music label for us was to have an outlet for our music. People would admire our music, our friends’ music, and we wanted to set up shop to give artist friends a little more representation. So, I think our label is just an extension of our taste in music, leaning more on the experimental. Still electronic, but a little bit more experimental, maybe not always playable. It’s just like a creative outlet: broadcasting the things we like.

Do you ever have a sibling rivalry with your brother Chris over artistic differences?

I think with my brother in particular it is so easy because we are working together, making music, living together, and have been doing that all our lives. It’s always me and my brother. He automatically thought of DJing as well because it’s just what we gravitated towards. Even when we get into little fights…the little things don’t get in the way of our goals. It’s like a beautiful partnership. We are like yin and yang. We are really similar in a lot of ways but also very different, so it’s perfect. If we were too alike it probably wouldn’t work.
What is your goal for keeping the arts thriving in light of this new U.S. administration?

Like many genres of music and art, the best work has come out of troubled times, so I think this is going to fuel the arts. It definitely fuels me and a lot of my peers. I think you are going to see a lot of interesting things coming out of this because everybody now has so much emotion whether it’s negative or positive. I think in the music industry, anything can happen. I don’t know what’s the situation is going to be in the next 4 years, but hopefully we can distract from the negativity.

IRIS Covet Book likes to cast a spotlight on the charity work that are subjects are doing. What’s the focus of Cuttin’ Headz as a label and the Martinez Brothers in terms of giving back to the community?

Yes, actually we are talking to a group that has approached us about giving back and doing classes and seminars, to teach children about music. It is a big project that I want to do, and Chris and I are setting up a Martinez Bros. Scholarship. We are going to give kids in need X amount of dollars to support music or arts based programs, but that’s gonna be within the next year or so. We are still trying to figure that out, but that’s definitely one of our focuses. Everything has to be in the right time, but giving back is definitely a big part of the agenda. We want kids putting out music. Chris and I have this one kid on the Cuttin Headz label who is 17 years old! We are definitely going to have the kids involved.

I think that you and your brother are so inspiring in that way because from DJing in your room at fifteen years old to performing for Givenchy in Paris is amazing for a young person to see.

I want to let them know that they can do it too. These kids that produce out here, they have to know that they can do it too, you know what I mean, as long as they have the drive, as long as they have the ambition and if they stay focused.

IRIS07_MartinezBros-1Photography by Greg Swales|Styling by James Zumarraga|Grooming by Yanni Boyiatzis @thewallgroup|Interview by Benjamin Price

JAMES GOLDSTEIN

IRIS07_JamesGoldstein-1Custom Made Jacket by Balmain, Custom Made Hat is Mr. Goldstein’s own design, Scarf by Ashley Ashof, T-Shirt by Saint Laurent, Belt by Roberto Cavalli and Pants by Balmain.

James Goldstein is an enigma. An American billionaire living in Los Angeles, Goldstein spends his days traveling, socializing with the rich and famous, and living in a work of art in the sky. Though the exact source of his billions remains vague, we do know Goldstein has created quite an empire for himself in property and real estate investments. As a self-proclaimed NBA “super-fan”, Goldstein sits courtside at every LA home game and travels for seven weeks every year during the playoff season, following the teams’ game schedule as they tour from city to city. Mr. Goldstein has been working on his iconic modernist estate – a fantastically detailed vision of poured cement and glass that includes: a tennis court, entertainment theater, private night club, sprawling landscaping, and a commissioned installation room by renowned artist James Turrell.

When he is not traveling with his favorite NBA players, James spends his time jet-setting to St. Tropez and Ibiza, sitting front row during fashion week as a personal guest of the designers for Balmain, Saint Laurent, and Versace, or hosting celebrity packed parties at his home. Goldstein is instantly recognizable with his reptilian cowboy hats, tight leather jeans, and custom-made blazers. Aesthetic and attention to detail are important to Goldstein, and nothing proves that point more than his home which has has been honed and customized perfectly to his individual taste. IRIS Covet Book invites you to enter the beautifully designed life of James Goldstein.

IRIS07_JamesGoldstein-2Jacket by Saint Laurent, Custom Made Hat is Mr. Goldstein’s own design, Scarf by Ashley Ashof, Pants by Balmain, and Boots by Dior Homme. 

Coming from Milwaukee, Wisconsin where you were born what brought you to live in Los Angeles?

I went to college at Stanford and moved sight-unseen, and while I was there I had a roommate who was from Los Angeles who invited me to visit him during a break from school. My impression of Los Angeles was very favorable and I decided to give it a try by going to UCLA for graduate school. I’ve lived here ever since.

How did your career unfold after school?

Well, I am not sure if I had any clear aspirations at that time, but I began in property investments and headed off in that direction feeling that it would be lucrative and hopefully allow me to not spend my life working all the time. Eventually, I felt that it offered me an opportunity to have a lifestyle where I could enjoy many other things besides working 9-5. Basketball was certainly important to me at that time as well.

Did you ever want to be a professional basketball player?

I certainly wanted to be when I was younger, and I played on my high school basketball team, but I was realistic enough to know that the chances of that were very slim. So, instead of hoping to be a professional basketball player, I hoped to someday own, or be a partial owner, of a basketball team.

You have your new clothing line “James Goldstein Couture”, what was the inspiration, or the thought process, behind starting that collection?

I was approached by two of my closest friends from Milan who called me one day and said they wanted to start a clothing line. They wanted me to be the name of the line and the inspiration behind the designs. I had never seriously considered starting a clothing line because I do not have formal education in fashion design, but I have had a number of people come to me throughout the years and urge me to start a clothing line because they liked my style. I couldn’t say no because they are such good friends, and I thought maybe I could have some fun as well.

Your style is so signature and unique. How did that come to be? Did you always have a way with how you dress or did it evolve over time?

At an early age, I started following the top designers in Paris and Milan, and even in high school I always wanted to be one step ahead of everyone else when it came to fashion. I started traveling to Europe when I was young and I payed very close attention to the new clothes each season, and I tried to acquire special pieces every time I would go. I was really getting inspired by what these designers were coming up with and that became the governing determinant of what I was wearing each season. My style really evolved out of following these designers, which I continue to do.

Who are your favorite designers at the moment?

Well, Olivier (Rousteing) from Balmain is number one for me right now.

Why is that? What is it about his designs that speak to you?

He comes up with some very unique designs that are quite glamorous, amazing in their styling, and quite often made out of python which is one of my favorite materials to wear. They are all unique too. No one else will be wearing them. I know when I put one of those pieces on that people who see me won’t see that look on anyone else. Olivier is a friend of mine. He and I meet whenever I go to Paris and discuss the upcoming season. We are definitely on the same wavelength.

In recent years, I have also been buying a considerable number of clothes from Saint Laurent. I’ve bought a couple of pieces that I wear quite frequently. I’ve always liked what Vaccarello has designed for women, so I am waiting to see what he comes up with for men. So far there isn’t the same depth to the collection that there was under Hedi (Slimane), but I have bought two jackets recently from YSL that are just outstanding.

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IRIS07_JamesGoldstein-3Jacket by Saint Laurent, Custom Made Hat is Mr. Goldstein’s own design, Scarf by Ashley Ashof, and Pants by Balmain. 

What are some of your favorite destinations to travel in the world? I imagine that you do quite a bit of traveling because of the NBA games and other social events.

I travel almost seven months out of the year. There are different categories of travel that I indulge in. There are the NBA games during the playoff season which lasts for seven weeks and require travel almost on a daily basis to various US cities. Then there is the fashion travel which takes me to Milan, Paris, Moscow, Berlin, Copenhagen, etc. once or twice every year. I have my regular summer vacation spots which include St. Tropez and Mykonos, Ibiza, and so forth. Probably the most exciting traveling that I do every year is when I visit a place that I have never been to before. I try to do that at least once a year. This past winter I went to Sri Lanka and Southern India for the first time.

You’ve been referred to as a “super fan” of the NBA. How did your love of basketball first begin?

It began at the age of five or six when my parents put a basketball hoop up in our driveway and I started playing. I really took to the sport, and at the age of ten my father took me to my first professional basketball game and I fell in love with the NBA, even though at that time it was not very popular. At the age of fifteen I was offered a non-paying job as the statistician for the Milwaukee Hawks, so I was attending every home game and sitting courtside. That experience really propelled me into making basketball a huge part of my life and has never stopped.

When you’re not attending NBA games, how do you spend your free time? What are your favorite activities in Los Angeles?

I enjoy playing tennis, and having my own tennis court. I not only attend basketball games with two teams in Los Angeles, but I also follow the games on television religiously. I read the Los Angeles Times and New York Times every day cover to cover, and I enjoy going out to various restaurants, parties, and so forth. I still have a very active social life and like to hang out with people much younger than me.

There is also, of course, Club James Goldstein, which is a really impressive structure inside of your home where you host large parties and gatherings. What have been some of the most memorable events you’ve had in the club?

Well, the club was not even finished yet when Rihanna had her birthday party there, and that was a very memorable event. One of the best parties I have ever been to, even though it was in my home. (laughs) Fairly recently, on the night of the Academy Awards, there was an after party here that did not start until about midnight and lasted until 5:30 in the morning. The crowd was great, everyone was well dressed, and it was a great party.


IRIS07_JamesGoldstein-6Nestled into the side of a canyon, Goldstein’s house look out over downtown Los Angeles and beyond.

I can imagine! Those sound like two unforgettable parties. Do your neighbors hate you for all of the party noise? (laughs)

Well, there isn’t that much noise because the house is pretty well contained and situated down the hill, down a long driveway. There are a couple of neighbors who do call the cops though. (laughs)

Your home is such a phenomenal piece of architecture and I want to know how that came to be. How have you been developing it over the years, and what the are the inspiration behind these developments?

When I acquired the house, the minute I walked in…there wasn’t a doubt in my mind that it was the perfect house for me. But it was not perfect in terms of its execution and subsequent remodeling by the second and third owner of the home. Initially the house was built with a very tight budget, so very inexpensive materials were used throughout. The next owners painted what concrete there was, put in wall-to-wall green shag carpets, and did a lot of very bad things to the house.

Even though the house overwhelmed me when I saw it for the first time due to its fantastic architectural design, the house really had a long way to go to reach perfection. It took me a few years before I brought John Lautner, the architect of the home, back to work on it. We started out with one very straight forward project of replacing the glass windows in the living room. That was really my first experience with remodeling, and once I started that I never stopped.

I am a perfectionist and I wanted every detail of the house to be perfect without regard to cost. After a number of years of working with Lautner, I proceeded to other projects such as the landscaping where I took the same approach. After John Lautner passed away, I started new projects throughout the property, such as the James Turrell Skyspace, the tennis court, offices, nightclub, and the extensive terrace that I am still working on.


IRIS07_JamesGoldstein-7The furniture is custom-designed to fit the angles and design of the home. “Every detail has been worked on,” Goldstein says, “including where the stitching of the leather is.”|All interior photos by THE VHF – www.thevhf.com

What encouraged you to commission James Turrell to create that beautiful space?

I have always enjoyed contemporary art and like to attend museums and galleries on a regular basis. The first time I saw a work by James Turrell was at the Ace Gallery in Venice, and I was very excited by it. I continued to follow his work which I would see everywhere in France, Italy, and someone’s personal collection here in Los Angeles. I knew that I had to have one for myself.

Do you think that your home is close to perfection now?

Yes, I do. But, there is always going to be some fine tuning that is going on.

IRIS07_JamesGoldstein-5Integrating indoor and outdoor space was one of John Lautner’s signature architectural elements including the dramatic cliff-side location and large expanses of glass.

At IRIS we like to highlight the charitable work of the people we feature. Can you share with us any charities or humanitarian issues that are important to you which you support?

I have donated my house, property, clothing, pretty much everything that is in the house to LACMA, the Los Angeles County Museum of Art. They intend to keep the house how it is; preserving it and opening it to the public. I have become quite involved with LACMA, and it would have to be my number one charity at the moment.

IRIS07_JamesGoldstein-8Jacket and Pants by Balmain, Custom Made Hat is Mr. Goldstein’s own design, Scarf by Ashley Ashoff
Photographer’s assistant Tony Adams|Production by XTheStudio, Special Thanks to Roberta Leighton and Kristin Fliehler|For more information: jamesfgoldstein.com